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The mouth of the horse is the principle means of communication between the horse and rider or driver. Obviously, other aids are used as well, but for many, the bit is what determines direction, rate of speed and position or frame in which the horse moves. Horses are the only domestic animals that have their mouths used in this fashion.
The design and function of the horse’s mouth is such that it provides a perfect vehicle for use as a steering device. The interdental space allows a bit to lie comfortably without interfering with the normal position of the jaws when they close. The tongue, in most instances, is less mobile than in cats, dogs, cattle, sheep or goats. The horse does not have a need to chew its cud (ruminate) as do ruminant animals, and it does not normally lap water or lick objects as much as a dog or cat.
Interestingly, being in control is primarily a human concept. Humans seek praise, recognition and control. Horses seek peace and quiet. They are not interested in being in control, nor in being controlled. By allowing themselves to be controlled, they express their attitude and willingness to submit to domestication. Compare the average domestic horse with what is known about attempts to train truly wild species like zebras or Prezewalski horses. Both are nearly untrainable unless they are weaned by day three and hand raised by knowledgeable people.
Control of the horse’s head was recognized from the beginning of time as a necessary means to control the whole horse. Bits were developed several thousand years ago and have seen little change since with some refinements in manufacturing, but the mechanical principles have remained the same. A piece of medal is held in place in the interdental space so as to lie across the tongue and the bars of the mouth. Reins are attached and the horse learns direction and the acceptable response: go right; go left; stop; back up. Each generation of humans must learn how to communicate these directions to the horse, as each generation of horses must learn how to respond.
Teaching a horse to correctly wear and respond to the bit is a contact sport, like dancing or wrestling. To appreciate all the variations, it is necessary to DO IT.
Correctly bitting a horse has very little to do with mechanics. It has everything to do with feel, timing and balance. It is much more an art form than a science. In the hands of some individuals, a complex high-port-curb bit is an instrument of communication with all of the delicacy of playing a violin. In another person’s hands, a thick hollow-mouthed snaffle may be as dangerous as a surgical scalpel in the hands of a monkey.
The first consideration in placing a bit in a horse’s mouth is to be sure there are no abnormalities within the mouth that may cause discomfort. Old injuries such as scars, sharp or abnormally located teeth, misshapen jaws or previous tongue injuries should all be noted and the necessary corrections made. Many trainers are having their veterinarian do a performance float. of their horse’s teeth before introducing the horse to the bit. They remove all sharp edges plus rounding the front corners of the first cheek teeth, both upper and lower. This allows more room for mouth tissues and reduces discomfort when the reins are tightened and bit pressure increased. Wolf teeth and mature caps are also removed as needed. Properly performed dental work is often credited with putting power steering on a horse that previously had difficulty wearing or accepting the bit.
The structure and available space for carrying the bit varies with each horse. The older the horse becomes, the more room is present. This is partly the reason the bitting process is often done step-wise, introducing more complicated mouthpieces as the horse ages and increases in level of training. Junior western horses are often shown in snaffle bits or hackamores through their fourth or fifth year of age. By this time, all of their permanent teeth are present and in wear so; at least, dental changes are minimal from then on.
Size and shape of the bit is important. Most mouthpieces should fit from side to side as to allow one-half inch of space between the lip and ring or shank. Too narrow, and it pinches; to wide, and the bit tilts, rocks and moves around too much in the horse’s mouth. Excess width also prevents the bit from staying centered, thus increasing its annoyance and reducing its effectiveness.
A number of approaches are used to teach a horse to respond to the bit. Some rely on force and making the horse do it. Others depend on teaching a horse to give to pressure. The horse learns not to pull on the rider’s hands. This usually begins with teaching the horse to release laterally by bending its neck and relaxing its jaw. This eventually transfers to flexing vertically, which is more difficult for the horse. Exercises, such as teaching the horse to bend laterally both ways until it can touch its muzzle to the rider’s foot on both sides, increases lateral flexibility. Vertically flexing with its head at various heights helps to teach response balance. Learning to follow the feel of pressure and lowering its head all the way to the ground, are skills that can be used to increase a horse’s suppleness and increase its softness and responsiveness. It becomes a challenge and a game to see how soft and supple the horse can become.
In the beginning, bitting can start with the horse standing, then at a walk, then at a trot, then canter. As with everything in training, it is progressive and the better it is learned at the slower gait, the easier it will become. As the speed increases, so does the difficulty. Most people find a working trot is an effective gait to begin teaching a horse to yield and flex. Various patterns, calisthenics and exercises can be used to teach a horse to respond to the bit over time. Each horse is an individual and will have individual traits and quirks that will present themselves as a challenge to the rider.
It is important that the horse respects the bit but never become afraid of it. Either lack of respect or fear will cause the horse to become stiff and brace against the bit. This can result in hollowing of the back, stiffness in movement, running away, rearing or bucking. Softness, on the horse’s part, and respectful obedience, are what is desired.
Bits come in two different forms with infinite variations to each. Snaffle bits are considered to be direct pull bits where the rein pull is equal to the pressure in the horse’s mouth. Generally, snaffle bits are considered to be relatively mild bits. Mouthpiece design plus increased leverage from use of draw reins or running martingales can create a seriously aggressive and even traumatic bit.
Curb bits are leverage bits. The degree of leverage plus the style of mouthpiece can change the potential severity. Leverage increases as the lower shank lengthens. The finer the mouthpiece (smaller in diameter), the more severe the bit. High ports, hinged mouthpieces and projections below the level of the bars of the bit increase severity also.
Other specialty bits are designed for specific problems. The intent of the use of bits is for communication. A visit to most any tack shop would more likely suggest they are designed for control. The intent would appear to be that control is achieved through discomfort or pain. With the horse, nothing could be farther from the truth. Pain causes a horse to attempt to evade or escape.
Proper bitting achieves softness, lightness and responsiveness and comes only from careful training, not force. Force may result in frame, but it is from fear, not confidence, and is easily distinguished once the difference is seen.
A large variety of hackamores have been tried on horses and developed over the years. Originally braided rawhide bosals were introduced from Spanish influence. These were braided nosebands with reins attached. Other forms have been spin-offs and include everything from rope halters to lariat rope, leather covered metal, hard plastic and segmented nosebands that can collapse and create significant pressure when the reins are pulled. Side-pulls, an Anglo version of a Spanish hackamore, are popular with the stock horse breed trainers. English riders have long used their version of the side-pull and call it a jumping hackamore. Traditional hackamores are used similar to snaffle bits in that they are most effective for lateral control. They are used to protect the young horse’s mouth from the bit. Small diameter bosals are used in combination with curb bits to advance the horse in training to eventually being straight up in the bridle.
Dr. R.W. Cook, formally at Tufts University College of Veterinary Medicine, has become involved with what he calls The Bitless Bridle. Dr. Cook has contended for sometime that bits are counterproductive to normal horse function. A website, ?The Bitless Bridle,? explains the function and use of this headstall. Personal experience indicates it has a wide variety of uses. It has been especially useful in starting youngsters.
With all of these alternatives to bits, pulling on the reins creates pressure along the outer edge of the horse’s cheeks. This results in pressing the inner-surface of the horse’s cheeks against the outer edges of the upper cheek teeth.
Dentistry performed before the young horse enters its first stage of training has many benefits. It minimizes the risk of creating a negative response, such as head tossing or bracing. If dental problems exist, such as sharp enamel points, loose caps and presence of wolf teeth, the use of hackamore-type headstalls will not correct the training problems. Fix the dental problems first.
The most important lesson learned by the rider, is increased awareness. The rider will learn to recognize the horse’s slightest try and reward it by releasing pressure. This requires timing and feel, both of which are acquired with practice and experience. The results are definitely worth the effort!
© Copyright 2004 by SportHorseCM.com
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